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Flanked by jagged, looming limestone cliffs and rocky outcrops that rise up from the emerald green waters, there’s no denying the staggering beauty of the UNESCO World Heritage–stamped Halong Bay. The 1,600-plus islands have a history that dates back roughly 18,000 years and feature an astonishing collection of both populous floating fishing villages, uninhabited islands, and mysterious caves and grottos. Despite seeing multiple wars and invasions, the area has retained nearly all of its original splendor.
However, like the rest of Vietnam, the Halong Bay area is still struggling to keep up with the influx of tourists aching for a piece of this country’s allure, which is why the popular Gulf of Tonkin is often congested with sailing boats, overnight cruise ships, and hundreds of the country’s famous longboats. Luckily, the views that make Halong Bay so famous stretch far beyond just the Gulf, with smaller bays and islets—like Bai Tu Long Bay and nearby Móng Cái—boasting lush jungle scenes, picturesque beaches, and those infamous limestone drop-offs with far less of a human footprint.
The scenery may be Halong Bay’s most talked about feature, but the area is also rich with unique culinary delicacies and a culture that’s completely different from the buzzing cities of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Here’s what to experience while you’re there:
Food
Situated in the northeastern end of the county, Halong Bay’s cuisine is reflective of the influence of neighboring China and Laos, as well as the local and indigenous ingredients that flourish here (think fresh seafood, crisp greens, and snails). Like Hanoi, which sits to the east of the bay, the fare in Halong Bay differs from that in Ho Chi Minh City—with a bit more spice and zest, and more of a focus on fish than beef, pork, or chicken. Here’s what to try:
Snails: It may sound simple, but snails are one of the favorite street dishes for locals and visitors. Although influenced by the French escargot, the Northern Vietnamese snails are served in far more tropical dressings. Quan ocs (snail eateries) throughout the islands typically serve snails in rich coconut curries (called Oc len zao du’a), fried in chilis and sea salt (called Oc huro’ng rang muo ot) or steamed in a bath of fish broth and lemongrass (called Ngheu hap sa). One thing you’ll notice when you order, the snails typically come with a side of fish sauce, baguettes (for sopping up the savory sauces), coriander, and limes. Where to try it: Cua Vang Restaurant, Bai Chay Ward, Tuan Chau District, Halong Bay, Vietnam.
Ngán Wine: Crustaceans and mollusks reign supreme in Halong Bay, mostly due to the rich mineral content of the water. Because of this, you’re bound to find Ngán, a type of hard clam indigenous to the area, on almost any menu. Although you can enjoy one of these pungent clams in a variety of ways (stewed, fried, or served in a creamy sauce), locals love it one way especially—in wine. The shells are opened and the blood of the clams is poured directly into a strong fermented liquor. Drink up: Locals also say it naturally improves libido. Where to try it: Halong Night Market, Halong Bay, Vietnam.
Oysters and lobsters: Whether on a drifting restaurant in the middle of the bay or in the center of Haiphong, you’re bound to find freshly caught lobsters and trays of oysters for the plucking. As in the U.S., the lobsters are best enjoyed quite simply—steamed with a side of rice porridge. The oysters are also best enjoyed raw with just a dash of lemon, pepper, and salt, but you’ll find locals noshing on grilled varieties with chili lemongrass. One of the area’s nicest restaurants, 1958 Restaurant, often serves the oysters fried and breaded with a succulent and spicy sauce. Where to try it: Tuan Chau Island, Halong Bay, Vietnam.
Cha Muc: Arguably one of the most famous cuisines of the area are the chewy, crunchy and flavor-packed cha muc, or squid cakes and rolls. The cakes are rolled with fried squid, mushrooms, minced meats, peeled shrimp, fish paste and fried onion and rolled into thin rice paper. In addition, these cakes are sometimes made by mixing sticky rice, minced and mashed squid, spices and chilies (like coriander), fish sauce and salt and tossed into the deep fryer for a crispy outside and soft, succulent inside. Where to try it: Halong Market, Halong Bay, Vietnam.
Cà Sáy: One of the Northern Vietnam’s most flavorful dishes, Cà Sáy is a bit of hybrid between the Muscovy and a traditional duck, and offers a unique flavor profile that blends the tastes of both. This dish is typically served with an aromatic fish sauce made from herbal concentrations (like lemongrass and sassafras and ginger) grown on Tiên Yên. Typically grilled or slow roasted until the meat is fork-tender, a plate of this meat is served with fish sauce, fresh ginger, and even Coca-Cola. Where to try it: Linh Dan Restaurant, 104 Bãi Cháy Road, Halong City, Vietnam.
Sights and Highlights
A UNESCO World Heritage site since the mid-1990s, Halong Bay’s biggest charm is her natural beauty, thanks to the thousands of scattered, lush islands speckled along emerald hued waters. However, beyond the cliffs and the ethereal and mist-coated islets lies another side to the popular tourist stop. Smaller islands, like those near Lan Ha Bay, boast more tranquil and peaceful waters, the sprawling Halong City offers cultural charms beyond the water, Haiphong touts 19th-century French architecture, and underground caves abound with thousand-year-old rock formations.
Cruise: One thing you’ll notice as you embark on Halong Bay is the cluster of cruise ships sailing around the main bay. From larger ships—like Viking River Cruises—to smaller, most specialized ships—like those from Indochina Junk and Bhaya Cruises—this is the way to soak up as much time cruising along the bays as possible. Note, if you want to visit some of the smaller, less populous islands, like around Bai Tu Long, you’ll need to book at least a three-day cruise to get to and from.
Haiphong: Across from the highly trafficked island of Cat Ba is Haiphong, one of Vietnam’s largest ports, once a sleepy second cousin to the South’s bustling Ho Chi Minh City. The prosperous city has seen a cultural shift among locals and visitors, and the quirky city center—home to breathtaking 19th-century French architecture and colonial-era churches—has turned into a hip playground away from the Bay’s crowds. While you’re there, check out the Du Hang Buddhist temple, established in the 17th century and flanked by lush gardens or the Municipal Theatre and adjacent Square, which touts a French design. The colonial quarter also offers plenty of small cafés to sit in and order a lotus tea.
Cat Ba Island: The largest of Halong Bay’s islands, Cat Ba vaunts some of the area’s most treasured landscapes. Although most of the central portion of town is new—thanks to a rapid surge in tourism the past few years—the rest of the island is unchartered, wild, and rugged. Most cruise ships dock here so guests can soak up the 354-square-kilometer national park, which is home to cascading waterfalls, rocky cliff sides, idyllic bays, and sandy beaches, and even small fishing villages flanking the coast.
Floating Fishing Villages: Halong Bay’s floating fishing villages aren’t just among the most popular tourist destinations in the area, they’re also one of the most representative of the bay’s unique cultural heritage. More than 600 people live on boats and floating wooden homes all across the bay, with the largest being Cua Van village, which consists of more than 130 floating houses. The homes provide easy access to the fishermen, who come and go in the early mornings collecting fresh fish for both consumption and selling at the Bai Chay market.
Bai Chay Night Market: Although the markets in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City are more varied and boast larger offerings, the Bai Chay Night Market is nothing to shake a stick at. It features stalls selling the fresh catches of the day (from oysters to squid), vibrant works of art, locally spun silks, and other artifacts. The market, open from 6 p.m. to midnight; you’re bound to find something to take home as a souvenir. Pro tip: Go hungry and make sure to grab a succulent fried squid cake or a bowl of piping pho at one of the food stalls.
Caves and Grottos: Among the most astonishing of the natural landmarks of Halong Bay aren’t the limestone cliffs or the jungles on Cat Ba, but the slew of caves and grottos that sit on many of the bay’s islets and islands. One of the most famous is the Thien Cung Grotto, a.k.a. the Heavenly Cave. A dead cave (which means water no longer drips and new deposits are no longer forming), the reason for its popularity lies in a legend. It’s said that in order to save her village from drought, a young girl married the dragon that resided inside the cave. The cave itself is beautiful, but a bit hokey, with cheesy lighting and tons of crowds. A little less crowded is the Sung Sot Cave, which sits on Bo Hon Island. The cave itself is portioned into two main chambers, both of which feature light filtering to illuminate the hundreds of stalactites on the ceiling. Book a cruise tour or a day trip to experience the caves in all their glory.