13 Rising Fashion Brands to Have on Your Radar This Fall

It didn’t take long for Paolina Russo’s forward-looking knitwear to make waves in fashion’s inner circles. With just a few seasons under its woven belts and cutout ribbed knit dresses, the label has already been named a finalist for the 2023 Woolmark prize and awarded the inaugural Zalando Visionary Award in partnership with Copenhagen Fashion Week.

The early hype is earned: Combining references as disparate as French folklore, youth recreational soccer, cave drawings, and early-’00s spinning top toys known as Beyblades, Russo and co-founder Lucile Guilmard create techy knitted separates and soccer-cleat-studded corsets that cleverly merge their personal pasts with the future of fashion. Their vision for spring 2024 also had one of the most inclusive runways by every metric—even choosing a large venue to allow fans from beyond the fashion industry to sit in on the show.

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The Garment refers to itself as a “monochrome universe,” and under the direction of Sophia Roe and Charlotte Eskildsen, it’s one all minimalists will want to live in. While collections are largely constrained to a black, white, and occasionally washed-pastel palette, the smart layering and prevalence of exciting textures never allows it to feel boring. Case in point: The Copenhagen-based label’s spring/summer 2024 show displayed lace doily tops and color-blocked midi skirts, flowing tunics over coordinating pants, and a selection of exquisitely tailored car coats.

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Karoline Vitto’s designs emphasize and celebrate parts of the female form that other designers cover up—curves, rolls, and folds are the focal point. Long, charm-adorned cutouts and close-hugging silhouettes are signatures of her brand, which covers U.S. sizes 4–24 and is always modeled on curvy bodies. After an exciting runway debut at London’s Fashion East collective in 2022, Vitto held a show at Milan Fashion Week for the spring/summer 2024 season with support from Dolce & Gabbana.

SHOP KAROLINE VITTO

Veronica De Piante opened its virtual doors in 2022, but it has a sensibility that feels utterly timeless across its outerwear, knits, and evening dresses. You can easily see yourself passing down De Piante’s double-breasted leather jacket or floor-length red silk gown for generations. These pieces, and the entirety of the collection, are made in small batches by family-run factories in Italy.

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A lot of labels claim to have perfected the so-called capsule wardrobe. Fforme has actually done it, but not in a way that feels formulaic.

“At the end, what I try to do is break down rules, and with that comes a different way of dressing. There is a kind of freedom in that,” creative director Paul Helbers said in his spring 2024 show notes. A rethinking of the modular wardrobe manifested on Fforme’s inaugural Fashion Week runway through layered and overlapping separates in cream, mauve, and black; the asymmetric dresses and loose trousers were relaxed, but not “easy.” Elevated hybridity was also part of the offering, as in a dress that could transform into a breezy tunic through hidden zippers. Here, dressing intelligently can also mean dressing elegantly.

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Conner Ives’s vision of eco-responsible fashion doesn’t skimp on a sense of fun. The designer has repurposed nearly 15,000 T-shirts bound for scrapyards since 2021; his reimaginings have included splicing them into patchwork dresses and cutting and resewing them into other tops.

For spring 2024, Ives replaced a live runway show with a lookbook narrated by an AI Carrie Bradshaw. Titled “Late Capitalism,” the collection drew on modern fashion-girl archetypes inspired by an unlikely source: “a TikTok I saw of a girl in New York waiting in a long line for a sample sale at Dover Street Market,” he told Bazaar. “It was during the time that the Canadian wildfires turned the sky in the city orange. An impending ecological crisis serving as the backdrop to one of the industry’s many ‘not-to-miss’ consumerist moments, seemed to sum up the cultural mood.” To capture this highly specific moment, Ives partnered with Depop to source deadstock and raw materials for the line.

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Grace Ling was one of the most anticipated runway debuts at New York Fashion Week in September. At first glance, her collection delivered a futuristic spin on eveningwear, with freaky metal embellishments and sheer ribbed fabrics. Breaking down each look, Ling pointed out that her designs have their basis in extremely wearable pieces like trousers, blazers, and comfortable skirts. Combining chicly utilitarian pieces with surrealist hardware, “I see [my collection] as a uniform for the cultured modern person—a lifestyle and witty spirit that holds an ongoing dialogue with the world of art, sustainability, and multifaceted fashion,” she said.

SHOP GRACE LING